THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


?J\ 


#0  mg  frienb  anb  neig06or,  £0omas  QR. 
of  nEesfyoinf,  Cafatteras  Counfg, 
t»3oee  Bucce00  in  florftcufturaf  ^urButfs  mabe 
for  flimeeff  anb  famifg  a  Beaufifuf  0ome,  anb  ^ro« 
Dibeb  if  f»tf3  a  t»eaff3  of  probucfe  from  Qtafure's 
store  3ouBe  of  nuts,  fruif  anb  ffot»ers,~an  ey* 
antpfe  for  cuerg  gome  fotjer,— f#e  incenfitje  fo  mg 
tworft  in  fflis  fine,— as  a  f often  of  esteem,  f^is 
fitffe  tjofume  is  resyecffuffg  bebicafeb. 


3fc  WALNUT 


ILLUSTRATED 


A  Comprehensive  Treatise  on 
How  to  Grow  It 


By  E.  M.  PRICE 

Westpoint,  Calaveras  County 
California 


1910 

THE  JOS.  M.  ANDERSON  CO..  PUBLISHERS 

416  J  STREET,  SACRAMENTO 

CALIFORNIA 


Copyright  by 

Anderson  and  Price 

1910 


E.  M.  PRICE 


923377 


CONTENTS 


The  Walnut.     History 

Juglans    Californica,    Watson 14 

Great    Demand   for   Walnuts .18 

How  to  Prepare  Nuts  for  Planting 18 

Mystery  of   Plant   Life.     Experiments 21 

How  to  Prepare  the  Land  for  Planting 24 

Irrigation 28 

Neither   Root-Graft   Nor   Remove  a   Grafted   Tree 30 

Varieties   and   Selection   of   Scions 30 

Fertilize    Imperfect   Trees 32 

Cover   Crops 34 

Crossing    35 

Stock    Improvement .36 

When   to   Cut   Scions 37 

The    Splice    Graft 38 

The    Cleft    Graft _ 42 

Graft  Old  Trees  by  the  Cleft  Method 47 

Bark   Grafting 48 

Side   Graft 48 

Saddle    Graft 50 

Budding    52 

The  Slip  Bud 53 

Half   Ring    Bud _ 54 

Ring    Bud 56 

Train   Your   Grafts 56 

Mingle   Varieties   in    Grafting 58 

Do    Not   Graft   Young    Trees 58 

Pruning    60 

Bearing    Qualities 63 

Harvesting — Bleaching    64 

Value  for  Timber _ 65 

Value   of   Nuts 65 

The  Analysis  of  the  Walnut 66 

Grafting    Wax    Formula 68 


[7] 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Growth  of  Graft  in   One  Year  on  California   Black 15 

Walnut   for    Planting — Sprouting    Nut 19 

First    Year's    Growth     of    Graft    on     Four    Year    Old 

California    Black 27 

Second  Year's  Growth  of  Graft  Showing  Nuts 29 

One  Year's  Growth  on  Four  Year  Old  California  Black  31 

Staminate  and   Pistillate   Bloom : 33 

Splice    Graft 39 

Method  of  Inserting  the  Scions 41 

View   Showing   the   Scions   Waxed   and    Bound 43 

Graft   on    Large    Stump 49 

Saddle    Graft 51 

The   Slip    Bud 55 

Half   Ring   Bud 57 

Ring    Bud 59-61 

Mayette  Nut,  Hubbard  Nut,  Franquette  Nut,  Calavette 

Nut  ...  71 


[8] 


PREFACE 


HIS  treatise  is  based  upon  the  experience 
of  twenty  years,  in  walnut  culture,  in 
the  Sierras, — elevation  nearly  three 
thousand  feet,- — at  Westpoint,  Calave- 
ras  County,  California.  Had  we  pos- 
sessed at  the  beginning  of  our  work 
with  the  walnut  the  information  to  be 
obtained  in  this  text-book,  we  could 
have  accomplished  more  in  eight 
years  than  we  have  in  the  twenty.  That  others 
who  wish  to  engage  in  growing  walnuts,  may  profit 
by  our  experience  and  thereby  save  years  of  valu- 
able time  and  labor,  is  our  reason  for  offering  to  the 
public  this  volume.  The  walnut  industry  in  our 
country  has  only  begun..  With  proper  stock  treated 
on  scientific  lines,  it  in  time  would  respond  in  every 
state  of  the  Union.  When  a  variety  of  the  Persian 
walnut  will  bloom  the  first  of  June  and  ripen  a  fine 
flavored  nut  in  the  early  fall,  we  have  only  to  get 
hardy  stock  and  that  walnut  can  soon  be  grown 
from  the  state  of  Washington  to  Maine. 

Suppose  the  highways  of  the  nation — roads  and 
railroads — were  bordered  by  rows  of  stately  walnut 


PREFA CE 


trees,  how  pleasant  the  ride  thru  them,  either  in 
automobiles,  or  on  the  cars.  What  wealth  these 
millions  of  trees,  when  ripe,  would  add  to  the  do- 
main. 

Besides  the  beauty  of  landscape ;  who  can  esti- 
mate their  value?  Again,  what  aid  to  the  great 
work  of  conservation  it  would  give. 


The  Walnut 


one  *»$o  sludging  Qtafure's  fatws, 
Srom  ftno&n  effecfs  can  frace  tfye  secret  cause." 


ALNUT — Juglans — name  from  J  o  v  i  s 
glans — The  nut  of  Jove  or  Jupiter.  Be- 
cause of  its  value  to  the  people  of  that 
early  age  it  was  called  "The  food  of 
the  gods." 

Whether  the  different  varieties  found 
in  various  lands  had  a  common  origin 
we  do  not  know.  Trees  centuries  old 
grew  in  America,  before  the  days  of 
Columbus.  The  testimony  from  glacial  drift  in 
Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois  gives  indisputable  evi- 
dence, that  forests  containing  red-cedar,  beech,  syca- 
more, hickory  and  the  walnut  grew  thruout  this 
vast  section  and  were  buried  during  the  "Age  of 
Ice."  So,  thruout  the  great  Mississippi  Valley,  the 
walnut  grew  thousands  of  years  before  the  pyramids 
rose  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  or  the  mythical  deity 
for  whom  it  was  named — Jove — Jupiter — had  his 
origin  in  the  fables  of  men.  Doubtless  all  kinds 


THE    WALNUT 


moved  southward,  growing,  bearing  seed,  propagat- 
ing their  species  during  the  ravages  of  the  Ice-JKing, 
returning  only  when  his  reign  was  broken  and  cli- 
matic conditions  necessary  to  their  growth  returned. 

The  writer  has  frequently  examined  wood  frag- 
ments from  glacial  drift  in  Indiana  and  Illinois.  See 
Our  Planet  by  Gunning,  page  172. 

The  commercial  walnut— commonly  called  Eng- 
lish— was  brought  originally  from  Asia  (Persia)  and 
cultivated  thruout  the  Mediterranean  countries  for 
centuries.  It  was  early  taken  to  England.  By 
some  authorities — in  1he  days  of  the  Romans. 
From  England  it  was  brought  to  America,  hence  the 
name  English  Walnut. 

In  France  (Gaul)  it  was  called  Gaul  nut  and 
probably  the  name  walnut  is  an  English  corruption. 

John  Evelyn,  in  his  "Sylva"  (1664).  says:  "In 
Burgundy  walnut  trees  abound  where  they  stand  in 
the  meadows  of  goodly  land  sixty  feet,  and  a  hun- 
dred feet  apart." 

Of  the  walnut  in  Germany  he  says:  "Whenever 
they  fell  a  tree  which  is  only  the  old  decayed,  they 
always  plant  a  young  one  near  him."  He  tells  of  a 
custom  which  would  be  well  for  us  to  heed.  Xo 
young  farmer  can  marry  until  he  has  grown  a  stated 
number  of  walnut  trees.  Think  of  the  benefit  such 

[  12  ] 


THE    WALNUT 


a  custom  would  eventually  yield.  We  have  been  the 
greatest  vandals  in  the  destruction  of  the  finest  and 
most  valuable  forests  the  earth  has  produced.  We 
have  sown  to  the  winds  and  unless  we  soon  check 
the  waste  and  begin  a  sensible,  practical  system  of 
'reforesting,  we  shall  ere  long  reap  the  whirlwind. 

We  may  learn  a  useful  lesson  from  a  study  of 
other  lands.  China,  is  a  field  for  thought.  Pales- 
tine once  a  land  of  milk  and  honey- — but  when 
her  forests  disappeared,  became  a  desert  waste. 

The  walnut  lives  and  bears  nuts  for  centuries. 

A  tree  estimated  to  be  one  thousand  years  old 
in  the  Crimea  near  Balaklava  bears  annually  from 
eighty  to  one  hundred  thousand  nuts ;  two  thou- 
sand Ibs.  or  more.  The  estimate  in  Ibs.  being  based 
on  the  weight  of  nuts  in  California  orchards. 

Information  given  by  an  Italian  neighbor,  that 
in  his  native  village  in  Italy  is  a  walnut  tree  over 
six  hundred  years  old,  which  bears  a  bounteous  nut 
crop  annually. 

An  English  walnut  tree  on  the  Morris  Estate  on 
Manhattan  Island  bore  choice  nuts  for  more  than  a 
century.  Washington  made  his  headquarters  at  the 
Morris  mansion  after  his  escape  from  the  British  on 
Long  Island  and  doubtless  ate  of  the  nuts  from  that 
tree. 

[  13] 


THE    WALNUT 


Reports  say  it  bore  two  cartloads  of  nuts  annu- 
ally. The  land  becoming  too  valuable  to  sustain 
only  an  old  historic  tree,  it  was  destroyed  in  1894 
or  1895. 

Juglans  Californica,  Watson 

Another  variety  of  the  walnut  family  found  only 
in  California,  and  long  considered  of  little  value, 
simply  adding  one  more  to  the  list  of  edible  nuts. 
But  nut  growers  in  California  are  beginning  to  real- 
ize that  for  stock  purposes,  it  has  no  equal  ;  and 
thousands  of  trees  are  now  being  grafted  annually. 
It  readily  withstands  the  heat  of  the  hot  valleys  of 
the  Pacific  Coast.  It  will  also  resist  a  great  degree 
of  cold. 

Examine  and  compare  the  bark  structure  of 
the  California  variety  with  that  of  the  Eastern 
black.  If  the  two  had  a  common  origin,  then  the 
parting  of  their  ways  was  in  the  distant  past.  It 
has  taken  centuries  to  produce  this  difference.  The 
California  is  the  better  tree  to  resist  heat,  hence  for 
this  reason  it  is  likewise  the  better  to  resist  cold. 

Majestic  specimen  of  this  walnut  can  be  seen 
along  the  Sacramento  River  at  various  landings 
from  Walnut  Grove  to  Sacramento  City,  also  some  in 


[ 


Growth  of  Graft  in  One  Year  on  California   Black. 


THE    WALNUT 


the  upper  Sacramento  Valley  at  Chico  from  three  to 
five  feet  in  diameter.  The  trees  at  the  latter  place 
were  planted  by  the  late  John  Bidwell  in  1862.  We 
were  informed  by  residents  of  Chico  that  occasion- 
ally during  hot  periods  in  summer  the  temperature 
is  115  Fahrenheit. 

It  flourishes  in  the  Sierras  at  four  thousand  feet 
elevation  and  is  not  injured  by  the  cold  and  snows 
of  winter.  It  thrives  best  in  deep  moist  alluvial 
soil.  Yet,  it  is  a  wonderful  tree,  and  seems  to  have 
retained  every  characteristic  given  it  by  its  environ- 
ment thru  the  ages  of  change  and  wanderings.  It 
will  grow  wherever  the  oak  can  exist. 

For  twenty  years  we  have  studied  its  growth  at 
three  thousand  feet  elevation  in  the  Sierras  together 
with  the  Eastern  black.  And  in  similar  soil  and 
culture,  it  grew  to  twice  the  diameter  of  the  latter. 
As  a  sap  producer  it  is  a  wonder,  and  herein  is  its 
value  for  stock  purposes.  Owing  to  this  quality,  it 
can  be  more  easily  grafted  than  other  varieties. 

The  illustration  was  made  from  a  photo  of  a  Cali- 
fornia black  walnut,  twenty  years  old,  and  twenty 
inches  in  diameter  below  the  fork. 

It  was  grafted  to  the  Franquette  April  5,  1908; 
and  the  photo  was  taken  June  1,  1909. 

[  16] 


JUGLANS   CALIFORNICA,    WATSON 

Thirty  scions  were  set  into  the  branches  of  the 
tree,  twenty-five  of  them  growing  and  making  the 
top  as  shown  within  the  period  of  time  given.,  This 
tree  is  in  the  orchard  of  the  writer,  at  AVestpoint, 
Calaveras  County,  California. 

If  nuts  are  taken  from  trees  growing  in  the  cold- 
est sections,  either  of  elevation  or  greatest  latitude 
where  it  is  grown,  and  planted  thruout  the  Eastern 
States,  we  believe  this  species  would  soon  become 
acclimated  to  our  coldest  sections,  and  in  time  grown 
anywhere  thruout  the  United  States.  We  had  very 
little  difficulty  in  getting  good  results  in  grafting 
the  Franquette.  Mayette  and  Calavette  varieties  into 
the  California  black  at  an  elevation  of  three  thou- 
sand feet  in  the  Sierras.  True,  some  of  the  limbs 
froze  back  some  four  or  five  inches  at  the  ends  the 
first  winter.  But  an  early  severe  pruning — taking 
out  all  the  frosted  wood,  restored  the  grafts  and  the 
growth  the  second  year  was  truly  phenomenal.  The 
yearly  growth  has  not  since  been  injured;  altho  the 
winter  of  1909  and  '10,  was  the  coldest  California  has 
experienced  for  many  years.  The  reason  the  tender 
Persian  varieties  are  so  readily  acclimated  is  in  the 
vigor  of  the  California  stock.  The  fluids  coursing 
upward  thru  the  cells  of  the  tree  partake  of  this 
vitality,  and  the  new  growth  is  soon  enabled  to  over- 
come every  obstacle. 

[IT  ] 


THE    WALNUT 


Great  Demand  for  Walnuts 

California  produces  about  half  of  the  walnuts 
grown  in  the  United  States,  and  our  imports  equal 
our  products.  As  an  article  of  food  it  is  growing 
into  favor,  hence  the  supply  does  not  keep  pace 
with  the  demand.  The  crop  of  the  United  States 
for  1909  was  nearly  twelve  thousand  tons,  California 
producing  about  half.  Suppose  our  imports  equalled 
our  production/we  would  then  have  had  forty-eight 
million  Ibs.,  about  one-half  Ib.  for  each  inhabitant. 

Is  it  not  time  that  the  cultivation  of  the  walnut 
was  receiving  greater  attention?  How  to  grow  it 
is  1he  mission  of  this  handbook. 

How  to  Prepare  Nuts  for  Planting 

"Countless  forests  slumbered  in  a  shell." 
Mother  Nature,  ever  alert  to  care  for  her  off- 
spring, has  carefully  stored  away  into  the  protect- 
ing shell  of  the  nut  a  germ  of  life  which  may  be 
made  to  grow  into  a  tree,  a  "Thing  of  beauty,  a  joy 
forever,"  which  gives  shade,  comfort,  and  food  to 
men. 

In  growing  walnuts  for  commercial  purpose,  the 
California  black  is  the  best  root  stock  known.  It 
is  very  hardy,  makes  rapid  growth,  thrives  under 

[  18   1 


Walnut  for   Planting — Sprouting    Nut. 


THE    WALNUT 


cultivation  in  any  locality,  hot  or  cold,  moist  or  dry, 
and  is  Ihe  easiest  to  get  results  in  grafting.  This 
species  is  very  prolific,  hence  any  variety  of  the  Per- 
sian nut  grafted  into  it  readily  responds  with  boun- 
teous crops;  the  nuts  being  larger  and  richer  in  oil 
and  flavor  than  when  grown  on  their  native  root. 

On  several  occasions  we  made  a  test  of  the  num- 
ber of  nuts  to  make  a  Ib.  grown  on  a  seedling  Sero- 
tina  tree  and  a  California,  grafted  with  scions  taken 
from  this  same  tree.  It  took  forty-two  nuts  from 
the  mother  and  thirty-six  from  the  grafted  tree. 
The  nuts  were  not  selected,  but  picked  up  as  they 
fell  from  the  trees. 

Select  choice  nuts  from  vigorous  prolific  trees. 
Put  six  inches  of  sand  into  a  box.  and  lay  nuts  over 
the  sand.  Cover  the  nuts  with  two  inches  of  sand 
and  leave  the  box  stand  out  in  the  winter  rains. 

Do  not  at  any  time  permit  the  nuts  to  become 
dry.  The  germ  lies  in  the  blossom  end  of  the  nut, 
and  the  shell  opens  at  this  end  when  the  nut  sprouts. 
Usually  the  nut  is  laid  on  the  side  so  a  vertical  line 
would  pass  thru  the  shell  when  opening. 


[20] 


THE    WALNUT 


Mystery  of  Plant  Life  Experiments 

A  knowledge  of  plant  life  being  very  essential 
to  success,  a  good  opportunity  is  now  offered  to 
make  some  valuable  experiments.  Under  the  influ- 
ence of  warmth  and  moisture  germination  begins. 
The  radicle  or  tap  root  first  appears  and  grows 
downward.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  the  point  of  the 
radicle  of  several  of  the  nuts  and  put  them  into 
another  box  of  sand  to  study  from  time  to  time 
their  growth.  The  taproot  grows  several  inches  in 
length  before  the  stalk  starts.  The  point  from  which 
each  part  starts  is  the  crown  of  the  tree.  Watching 
Ihe  plants  for  a  fewr  days,  tiny  stalks  will  be  observed 
reaching  upward  for  air  and  sunshine.  Between  the 
pair  of  unfolding  leaves  a  bud  (plumule)  reaches 
upward  and  lengthens  the  stalk.  Break  off  the 
stalk  at  the  first  pair  of  leaves  and  watch  the  result. 

As  observed  in  the  taproot  the  various  laterals 
branch  out  from  the  point  where  it  was  cut  up  to 
the  crown;  likewise  other  leaf  buds  will  unfold 
from  the  point  where  broken  down  to  the  crown,  to 
give  other  stalks  to  the  tree. 

Secure  a  microscope  of  sufficient  power  fo  show 
the  cell  and  cell  structure  of  the  plant.  Cut  off  the 
taproot  near  to  the  crown,  and  with  a  razor  cut  off 

[21  ] 


THE    WALNUT 


as  thin  a  portion  of  the  rootlet  as  possible.  Examine 
this  under  the  microscope.  Behold  the  great  number 
of  tubes  thru  which  the  sap  ascends.  Examine  like- 
wise a  portion  of  the  stalk  cut  off  above  the  crown. 
Study  the  leaf, — its  cell  and  structure — the  lungs  of 
the  tree,  which  extracts  nitrogen  from  the  atmos- 
phere and  throws  out  as  vapor  tons  of  water.  The 
query  is  how  this  water  which  holds  in  solution  the 
substances  necessary  to  the  growth  and  development 
of  the  tree,  depositing  them  in  its  journey,  rises  up 
thru  the  cells  of  bark,  cambium  and  alburnum,  from 
the  millions  of  tiny  microscopic  mouths  on  its  root- 
lets to  the  topmost  bud  and  leaf.  We  realize  that 
this  silent  force  is  powerful ;  but  from  whence  that 
power  and  how  applied  is  not  thoroly  understood. 
One  suggests  osmose  of  liquids,  another  capillarity, 
and  still  another  hydraulics.  Maybe  all  these  forces 
unite  to  build  the  stately  columns  in  our  forests,  as 
when  we  ride  on  the  electric  car  forty  or  fifty  miles 
per  hour  and  think  of  the  propelling  force — only 
gravity  carries  us  so  speedily ; — the  weight  of  falling 
water  transmitted  thru  the  electric  wire.  Yet  the 
force  which  lifted  the  water  and  bore  it  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountains  was  greater,  tho  only  a  sun- 
beam. This  is  the  force  which  gives  motion  to  gla- 
ciers, and  chiseled  out  the  canyons  of  the  world. 

[  22  ] 


MYSTERY  OF  PLANT  LIFE  EXPERIMENTS 

Maybe  each  plant  cell  is  an  electron  and  the  sun- 
beam playing  with  every  leaf  sends  this  silent  force 
down  thru  every  cell  of  the  tree  and  lifts  the  water 
that  the  leaves  daily  give  to  the  atmosphere.* 

Continue  these  experiments  until  a  knowledge 
of  the  cell  and  its  structure  has  been  acquired;  also 
of  the  rootlets  until  the  microscopic  mouths  which 
drink  sustenance  from  the  soil  have  been  seen. 
These  collapse  when  they  come  in  contact  with  the 
air,  then  no  power  of  the  microscope  can  show  them. 

They  must  be  examined  in  water  during  the  sea- 
son of  vigorous  growth  to  be  visible.  They  disap- 
pear from  the  rootlets,  as  the  leaves  do  from  the 
tree,  when  the  annual  season  for  growth  has  passed. 


*In  early  springtime, » the  sun  throws  the  influence  of  its 
heat  rays  around  and  into  every  cell  and  fibre  of  the  tree.  All 
expand  and  this  silent  force  reaches  far  out  from  the  crown, 
and  deep  into  the  earth  until  every  pore  on  each,  and  every 
rootlet  has  opened  to  admit  the  moisture  held  in  the  soil.  The 
expanded  cells  draw  in  a  flood  of  water  until  the  heat  with- 
in them  is  neutralized;  then  contraction  is  the  result,  and  the 
sap  rises  rapidly  into  the  trunk  and  branches  of  the  tree.  Again 
another  quiver  of  the  sun's  arrows  penetrates  the  cells,  and 
another  flood  rises  to  give  life  and  verdure;  when  another  simi- 
lar contraction  repeats  the  throb;  like  the  diastole  and  systole 
of  the  heart,  which  sends  the  life  blood  coursing  thru  our 
arteries  and  veins; — and  this  crimson  tide  is  too  propelled  by 
radiant  energy.  So,  Nature's  simple  work  in.  the  tree  goes  on. 
The  line  between  the  cells  of  bark  and  alburnum  opens  by 
osmotic  force,  and  the  new  cambium  forms,  and  repeats  the 
work  of  the  previous  year.  The  millions  of  little  mouths  upon 
the  rootlets  grow  to  take  in  more  readily  a  greater  supply  of 
liquid;  while  buds  upon  the  twigs  expand  and  soon  burst  into 
leaf  and  bloom.  If  the  sun's  rays  transmitted  thru  vast  masses 
of  ice  give  motion  to  a  glacier,  which  grinds  the  hardest  rock 
into  slime,  soil,  dust,  is  it  not  reasonable  to  suppose  that  this 
same  force — ignoring  the  law  of  gravitation — builds  the  giant 
columns  in  our  forests? 


[23] 


THE    WALNUT 


In  early  springtime,  new  mouths  must  grow  on  each 
and  every  rootlet,  before  the  young  buds  expand 
and  open  under  the  influence  of  the  sunbeam.  Some 
buds  are  not  so  susceptible  to  this  influence  as 
others.  All  late  blooming  varieties  as  the  Mayette, 
Franquette.  St.  John,  and  Chicoette  must  be  courted 
by  the  sunshine  long  after  the  earlier  varieties  are 
in  full  bloom  and  leaf. 

Hence,  among  the  trees  to  show  green  foliage 
late  in  springtime  we  look  for  our  hardy  varieties 
for  the  cold  climate.  The  power  to  resist  the  sun's 
rays  rests  in  the  bud,  and  those  that  resist  heat, 
likewise  are  the  best  to  resist  cold.  Graft  a  scion 
from  the  late  St.  John  into  the  early  blooming  Prae- 
parturien  and  the  period  of  bloom  has  not  been 
changed.  Again  graft  an  early  variety  into  the  late 
stock  and  it  continues  to  bloom  as  usual.  Read 
in  connection  with  these  experiments  some  late 
standard  text-book  on  botany.  The  work  will  be 
more  interesting  and  successful  from  the  knowledge 
acquired. 

How  to  Prepare  the  Land 

Prepare  the  land  by  thoroly  cultivating  it.  plow- 
ing very  deep  along  the  line  where  the  trees  are  to 
be  planted.  Stake  it  off  either  in  squares  or  diago- 
nals so  the  trees  will  be  not  less  than  sixty  feet  apart. 

[24] 


HOW    TO  PREPARE    THE  LAND 

With  a  long  handled  post  digger  sink  a  hole  not  less 
than  four  feet  deep,  where  each  tree  is  to  be  planted. 
The  deeper  the  hole  and  greater  the  diameter  the 
better.  jjFill  these  holes  with  rich  earth  surface  loam 
and  some  crushed  bones  if  possible  to  secure  them. 
Always  avoid  manure  either  green  or  decayed. 

When  the  nuts  begin  to  sprout  plant  one  in  each 

1  hole,  heaping  up  the  dirt  slightly  so  the  planted  nut 

\  will  lie  at  about  the  surface  level. 

If  the  soil  is  shallow,  i.  e.,  bedrock  within  four 
or  five  feet  of  the  surface,  cut  off  the  point  of  the  tap 

(  root.  If  the  land  contains  much  clay,  considerable 
sand  should  be  mixed  in  the  topsoil  with  which  the 
hole  is  filled.  Cultivate  as  you  would  a  field  of 
corn.  Plant  corn,  potatoes,  melons,  tomatoes,  beans 
or  sow  to  alfalfa,  leaving  at  least  eight  feet  on  each 
side  of  the  trees  for  cultivation.  After  three  or  four 
years  give  more  space  for  cultivation.  The  roots 
of  trees  reach  out  faster  than  the  limbs:  hence,  the 
small  rootlets  enmesh  long  before  the  limbs  inter- 
mingle. Walnuts  do  not  yield  good  crops  and 
some  varieties  have  ceased  to  bear  after  their 
roots  have  mingled.  This  is  the  principal  reason 
why  trees  should  be  set  never  less  than  sixty  feet 
apart.  Planted  as  directed,  they  will  grow  vigorous- 
ly, some  attaining  a  height  of  three  to  five  feet  in 

[25] 


THE    WALNUT 


a  single  season.  Should  the  tops  of  some  of 
the  trees  be  accidentally  broken  off,  as  sometimes 
happens,  they  can  still  be  made  good  trees  by  cutting 
off  all  the  lower  branches,  leaving  the  one  nearest 
the  break,  which  will  shoot  up  and  become  a  new 
top.  When  the  tree  is  ready  to  graft,  it  should  be 
cut  back  to  a  height  of  from  four  to  five  feet.  Here 
the  scion  is  inserted,  and  there  should  be  no  branches 
below  this  point. 

The  fourth  year  after  planting  is  the  proper  time 
to  do  this  work.  It  is  better  to  wait  until  then,  even 
if  they  appear  to  be  large  enough  at  an  earlier  time. 
Nothing  will  be  gained  by  grafting  when  the  tree 
has  been  growing  less  than  four  years. 

The  accompanying  illustrations  are  from  photos 
giving  two  views  of  the  same  tree.  The  first  shows 
the  growth  of  the  graft  set  the  llth  of  April,  1908, 
and  the  view  taken  the  1st  of  October.  The  second 
view  was  taken  in  October,  1909.  The  tree  bore 
five  Ibs.  of  nuts  that  year.  This  is  neither  phe- 
nomenal nor  exceptional.  It  only  emphasizes  the 
correct  method  of  propagating  the  walnut. 

A  year's  cultivating  can  be  saved  by  planting  in 
a  nursery  and  then  transplanting  when  the  trees  are 
about  a  year  old.  This  transplanting  should  be  done 
at  the  proper  season  for  such  work  in  the  part  of 

[26] 


First  Year's  Growth  of  Graft  on   Four  Year  Old 
California    Black. 


THE    WALNUT 


the  country  where  it  is  being  carried  on.  Every 
little  rootlet  should  be  preserved  and  the  hole  should 
be  of  sufficient  size  to  give  the  roots  plenty  of  room. 

Irrigation 

In  some  sections  it  is  necessary  to  irrigate  the 
young  trees.  If  this  is  done  by  flowing  the  water 
around  them,  do  not  fail  to  cultivate  before  a  crust 
forms.  Water  soaking  into  the  earth  makes  a  com- 
plete system  of  pores,  and  evaporation  is  very  great, 
if  these  be  not  broken  up,  by  thoroly  pulverizing 
the  surface.  Iff  lowing  water  cannot  be  obtained, 
tiling  four  inches  in  diameter  and  fifteen  inches 
long  may  be  set,  one  piece  near  each  tree,  the  top 
being  on  a  level  with  the  surface.  Fill  these  oc- 
casionally by  hauling  water  and  cover  to  prevent 
evaporation. 

A  substitute  for  tiling  may  be  made  of  pieces 
of  boards  three  and  five  inches  wide,  and  of  de- 
sired length.  These  give  an  opening  for  water  three 
bv  three  inches  in  the  clear. 


[28] 


Second    Year's    Growth    of    Graft,    Showing    Nuts. 


THE    WALNUT 


Neither  Root-Graft  nor  Remove  a 
Grafted  Tree 

The  California  stalk  is  just  as  necessary  to  a 
successful  tree  as  the  California  root.  It  has  never 
been  known  to  be  susceptible  to  borers,  blight  or  sun 
scald,  when  allowed  to  grow  where  planted.  Only 
the  transplanted  trees  sunburn.  Give  this  method 
of  tree  culture  a  trial  and  be  convinced.  Result,  a 
fine  nut  orchard  coming  into  bearing  the  sixth  year, 
developing  rapidly  thereafter. 

Varieties  and  Selection  of  Scions 

In  selecting  varieties  for  grafting,  know  the  lo- 
cality. If  subject  to  late  spring  frosts,  choose  late 
blooming  varieties,  as  the  Franquette,  Mayette,  etc. 

Select  scions  from  choice  bearing  trees,  and  from 
the  most  prolific  limbs.  Remember  that  environment 
has  as  much  to  do  in  shaping  the  destiny  of  a  tree 
as  it  has  in  the  child.  Even  from  prolific  bearing 
trees  there  are  limbs  from  which  scions  should  never 
be  used.  Nature  is  not  perfect.  Water  sprouts  from 
the  bodies  of  trees  usually  make  good  growth.  Never 
use  them.  True,  they  grow,  are  covered  with  leaf 
buds,  but  they  rarely  bear  nuts.  Their  growth  on 

[30] 


One  Year's  Growth  on  Four  Year  Old  California  Black. 


THE    WALNUT 


the  tree  was  simply  a  relief  from  a  copious  sap  flow, 
and  to  furnish  more  leaf  surface  to  give  nitrogen  to 
I  the  tree.  Select  scions  from  two  year  old  wood.  / 
(  The  last  buds  formed  the  previous  year  were  princi-/ 
pally  fruit  buds ;  use  these.  The  wood  is  firm  and 
buds  respond  readily.  Be  careful  to  select  scions 
from  perfect  trees,  i.  e..  trees  that  bear  both  stami- 
nate  and  pistillate  bloom,  which  mature  together. 
Many  trees  bear  both  kinds  but  the  bloom  does  not 
mature  properly.  Catkins  often  shed  the  pollen 
long  before  the  pistillate  bloom  is  ready  to  be  fertil- 
ized, hence  nut  failure.  Avoid  such  trees  in  select- 
ing scions. 

Fertilize  Imperfect  Trees 

Should  trees  as  above  described  be  found,  select 
ripened  catkins  and  scatter  the  pollen  over  them, 
when  the  pistils  are  ready  to  receive  it.  A  fair  nut 
crop  may  be  taken  from  such  imperfect  trees,  be- 
sides Nature  is  stimulated  in  correcting  her  faults. 
Some  trees  are  thus  brought  to  a  perfect  state,  while 
others  can  only  be  made  valuable  by  grafting.  In 
an  orchard  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  trees,  but  few 
were  perfect.  The  greater  number  had  to  be  grafted. 
Some  bore  nuts  the  third  year,  the  bloom  being  fer- 
tilized by  near-by  catkin  bearing  trees.  Yet  some  trees 

[32] 


Staminate   and    Pitstillate    Bloom. 


THE    WALNUT 


did  not  bear  catkins  until  the  fifteenth  year;  bearing 
however,  a  few  scattered  nuts  after  the  ninth. 
Do  not  expect  any  returns  under  ten  or  twelve  years 
from  an  orchard  of  seedling  trees.  Some  choice 
varieties  of  fine  nuts  may  be  obtained,  but  years 
must  be  sacrificed  to  do  it.  Quick  returns  are  de- 
sired, therefore  plant  the  California  black  nut,  graft- 
ing the  tree  the  fourth  year;  using  perfect  prolific 
stock.  Trees  will  commence  bearing  the  sixth  year. 
It  does  not  require  any  great  amount  of  skill  to  do 
the  work.  Skill  comes  with  practice.  Know  how, 
then  do.  Success  will  equal  the  interest  taken  in 
and  the  thought  given  the  work. 

Cover  Crops 

If  an  orchard  be  located  on  rolling  ground — as 
all  mountain  orchards  are  liable  to  be. — cover  crops 
should  be  sown  in  early  fall.  They  not  only  replen- 
ish the  soil  but  protect  it  from  washing  away  dur- 
ing the  heavy  storms  of  winter.  Eye  is  excellent 
for  this  purpose.  It  withstands  cold  weather,  makes 
good  growth,  and  a  fine  crop  of  fertilizer  is  usually 
turned  under  in  the  spring  cultivation.  Peas  are 
also  excellent. 


[34] 


THE    WALNUT 


Crossing 

If  new  varieties  are  desired,  plant  the  choicest 
nuts  from  any  perfect  tree;  let  them  grow  two  years 
in  the  nursery;  then  graft  a  scion  from  this  young 
growth  into  a  choice  bearing  tree.  Doubtless  pistil- 
late bloom  will  be  observed  on  this  scion  the  second 
year  after  grafting.  This  bloom  will  become  fertil- 
ized by  pollen  from  the  foster  parent.  The  resulting 
nut  will  indicate  the  new  strain.  This  nut  thus  pro- 
duced by  cross  fertilizing,  if  planted  will  produce  a 
hybrid  tree.  Hybrids  are  new  varieties  obtained  by 
crossing  old  varieties  of  different  kinds  or  even  spe- 
cies of  trees.  This  crossing  takes  place  in  the  bloom, 
by  the  winds  blowing,  or  the  bees  carrying  the  pol- 
len of  the  staminate  bloom  of  one  tree  to  the  pistil- 
late blossom  of  another. 

Cross  fertilization,  plus  environment  have  given 
the  great  variety  of  nuts,  fruit  and  flowers  we  en- 
joy. Mother  Nature  has  been  working  on  this  line 
for  ages.  The  honey  bees  have  been  the  friends  x>f 
men  in  cross-fertilizing  trees  and  plants. 

Luther  Burbank  has  given  many  wonderful  crea- 
tions of  nuts,  fruit  and  flowers  to  gladden  the  eye, 
and  to  add  to  the  wealth  of  the  world.  He  is  the 
great  leader  in  this  line.  As  said  of  Franklin,  "He 
tore  the  lightning  from  the  sky  and  the  scepter  from 

[35] 


THE    WALNUT 


tyrants,"  making  possible  the  achievements  of  Edi- 
son. So.  Burbank  gleaning  the  secrets  of  variety 
and  environment  from  Nature,  has  enlightened  the 
world  and  made  possible  the  horticultural  Edisons 
of  the  future.  He  is  loved  in  other  lands  than  ours. 
It  is  said  that  if  his  name  be  mentioned  before  a 
German  audience,  every  person  will  rise  and  bow 
with  respect. 

Esteem  is  the  meed  due  his  genius  from  the  liv- 
ing. The  future  will  rear  monuments  to  his  memory. 
Yet  in  our  humble  opinion  his  greatest  achievement 
is  not  in  the  material  things  he  has  accomplished, 
but  in  the  inspiration  he  has  given  to  the  thousands 
of  people  in  all  lands  who  are  taking  up  this  kind 
of  work.  Were  it  possible  for  the  "war  drum  to 
throb  no  more."  and  for  individual  selfishness  to  be 
banished  from  the  earth,  what  a  glorious  future 
would  be  before  the  human  race! 

Stock  Improvement 

The  stock  should  be  bred  up  by  taking  the  best 
scions  from  the  most  prolific  branches,  and  when 
these  are  bearing,  again  select  the  best  from  this 
selected  stock  and  note  the  improvement  in  nuts  or 
fruit. 

[36] 


STOCK   IMPROVEMENT 


By  grafting  we  are  supposed  to  keep  strains 
pure ;  but  such  superior  fruit  can  be  obtained,  that 
the  strain  appears  to  have  developed  into  a  new 
variety.  Such  superior  specimen  are  usually  desig- 
nated "Sports." 

As  a  rule,  from  sparse  bearing  trees  we  get  our 
choicest  nuts.  Such  trees  can  be  improved  by  se- 
verely trimming  them.  "Be  fruitful  and  multiply." 
"Bear  seed  and  continue  your  species,"  is  the  fiat 
of  Nature. 

The  tree  severely  pruned  concentrates  its  great 
sap  flow  into  the  few  remaining  branches  and  they 
bend  beneath  a  crop  of  nuts  exceeding  one's  expec- 
tation. These  nuts  are  superior  in  vitality.  Plant 
them  and  propagate  by  grafting  and  note  the  im- 
provement. Again  select  scions  from  the  limbs  of 
the  pruned  tree  that  bore  the  extra  nuts,  grafting 
these  into  other  trees  and  note  the  results. 


When  to  Cut  Scions 

After  the  yearly  growth  of  wood  has  thoroly 
matured,  in  early  winter,  scions  should  be  cut  and 
the  ends  where  severed  dipped  into  melted  wax, 
then  put  away  into  a  box  of  cold  moist  sand  and  set 
in  a  cool  cellar.  They  will  keep  thus  for  three  or 

[37  ] 


THE    WALNUT 


four  months.  "When  taken  out  in  the  early  spring- 
time to  be  used  in  grafting,  they  should  always  be 
kept  moist  and  cool. 

The  Splice  Graft 

The  splice  graft,  when  stock  and  scion  are  of 
the  same  size,  is  the  best  method.  It  unites  the  entire 
cambiums  of  both,  and  is  the  easiest  to  make.  Sever 
the  stock  at  the  point  where  you  wish  to  make  the 
graft,  in  a  slanting  cut  forming  an  ellipse,  the  long 
diameter  being  about  two  inches  in  stock,  one-half 
inch  in  diameter.  Select  a  scion  the  same  size,  con- 
taining two  good  buds.  Cut  the  scion  to  correspond 
to  the  stock,  leaving  the  lower  bud  midway  and  op- 
posite the  cut.  Insert  into  the  pith  cavity  of  the 
stock  a  toothpick  made  of  firm  wood,  and  force  it 
down  about  one-third  its  length. 

Force  the  exposed  end  into  the  pith  cavity  of 
the  scion,  forcing  the  two  together  until  the  cam- 
biums unite.  The  pith  cavity  performs  its  function 
in  the  plant  the  first  year.  There  is  neither  life  nor 
circulation  in  it  afterward.  The  tree  is  not  injured 
and  the  union  is  the  stronger.  Parts  are  kept  from 
moving  while  being  bound,  and  are  not  so  easily 
broken  when  the  bandage  has  been  removed.  Wrap 
with  strips  of  waxed  muslin,  or  bind  with  rafia. 

[38] 


Splice   Graft. 


THE    WALNUT 


Rubber  bands  hold  the  parts  sufficiently  firm,  and 
give  no  further  care,  as  they  readily  stretch  under 
growth.  Be  careful  to  leave  the  bud  exposed  when 
wrapping.  Cover  the  union  and  the  end  of  the  scion 
well  with  warm  or  melted  wax  put  on  with  a  small 
paint  brush.  The  wax  should  not  be  applied  too 
hot.  The  graft  should  be  kept  well  covered  with 
wax  to  exclude  the  air.  If  the  wax  is  too  hard  it 
checks  easily  and  permits  the  air  to  injure  the  scion ; 
and  if  too  soft  it  melts  during  warm  days.  Go  over 
the  grafts  with  brush  and  warm  wax  occasionally. 
After  the  scion  has  commenced  to  grow,  cut  the 
bandage  on  the  opposite  side  from  the  bud,  using 
a  sharp  knife  and  cutting  thru  to  the  bark.  Do  not 
remove  the  bandage  until  the  scion  is  making  good 
growth. 

The  time  for  growth  to  appear  varies  much  in  the 
different  varieties  of  the  Persian  walnut.  The  early 
blooming  kinds  may  show  swelling  buds  in  two 
weeks ;  while  six  weeks  may  elapse  before  any  signs 
of  growth  appear  in  the  later  varieties.  A  warm 
early  spring  starts  the  growth  soon,  while  cool 
weather  retards  it.  In  some  parts  of  California 
work  may  begin  in  January  and  continue  until 
June.  The  first  work  might  show  no  sign  of  swell- 
ing bud  before  April,  and  the  last  show  growth 
within  a  week. 

[40] 


Method   of   Inserting  the  Scions. 


THE    WALNUT 


*The  Cleft  Graft 

The  cleft  is  the  method  generally  used,  but  when 
performed  by  splitting  the  limb  and  inserting  the 
wedge-shaped  scion  best  results  are  not  obtained. 
The  walnut,  peach  and  even  the  cherry,  when  graft- 
ed late  in  the  springtime,  fail  to  respond  by  the 
above  method. 

If  the  operator,  after  making  the  cleft,  would 
cut  out  a  portion  of  the  wood,  thus  opening  up  a 
greater  number  of  the  sap  cells,  he  would  be  more 
successful.  When  the  limb  is  split  the  rough  bark 
prevents  a  good  union.  The  cells  are  simply  bent 
aside;  but  few  are  broken,  hence  scions  are  usually 
starved  and  make  poor  progress,  should  they  grow. 

Prepare  the  tree  by  cutting  off  all  the  limbs  to 
be  grafted.  First  cut  on  the  under  side  of  leaning 
limbs  until  the  saw  is  "pinched."  then  cut  the  bark 
around  the  limb  before  sawing  it  off. 

This  prevents  the  bark  from  stripping  down 
when  the  branch  falls.  Leave  a  limb  on  the  south- 
west to  shade  and  protect  the  young  grafts  from 
heat.  Make  a  cut  with  a  ripsaw  toward  the  center 
or  pith  cavity  of  the  limb,  and  down  the  side  about 
two  inches.  If  the  limb  is  small  you  may  have  to 


*Method    successfully    used    in    grafting    old    trees,    by    the 
Tribble  Brothers  of  Elk  Grove.  Sacramento  County,  California. 


[42] 


View  Showing  the   Scions  Waxed   and   Bound. 


THE    WALNUT 


cut  thru  this  cavity.  Give  no  heed  to  it  whatever, 
since  it  is  dead,  the  work  will  not  be  injured  in  the 
least  by  so  doing.  If  large  scions  are  used,  cut  out 
the  V-shaped  cleft  with  the  saw  and  smooth  the  sides 
with  the  knife.  When  the  scions  are  small,  shape 
the  cleft  with  the  knife  after  the  first  cut  with  the 
saw.  Shaping  the  cleft  properly  is  very  important. 
Cut  the  top  of  the  cleft  in  width  to  equal  the  diam- 
eter of  the  scion.  Every  motion  of  the  knife  should 
cut  toward  the  pith  cavity  of  the  stock.  Shape  the 
scion  to  fit  this  cavity  along  the  cambiums  on  each 
side ;  also  the  wood  of  the  scion  should  fit  firmly  in 
the  wood  of  the  stock.  The  circulation  is  not  alone 
in  the  cambium,  but  in  the  sap  wood  as  well,  hence, 
the  better  union,  the  betfer  result.  Drive  the  scion 
down  firmly  but  not  with  .sufficient  force  to  close 
the  cells.  Fill  the  space  back  of  the  scion  with  rags 
or  soft  paper  pressed  in  firmly,  to  absorb  the  sap, 
which  would  otherwise  fill  this  cavity  and  destroy 
the  scion.  In  grafting  limbs  six  or  seven  inches  in 
diameter,  put  four  or  five  scions  into  each.  "Wax 
over  the  ends  of  the  stock  and  the  scions  also  along 
the  face  of  the  latter  in  the  cleft.  Cut  the  scion  so 
a  bud  will  be  on  the  face  about  the  level  of  the  limb. 
Always  aim  to  get  two  good  buds.  One  is  better 
than  three.  If  scions  are  kept  in  good  condition, 

[44] 


THE    CLEFT    GRAFT 


grafting  may  continue  into  May,  long  after  the  tree 
is  in  full  leaf.  However,  do  not  cut  back  the  tree 
as  severely  as  may  be  done  in  early  springtime. 

The  test  of  any  method  is  in  the  result.  Our 
work  being  more  successful  when  we  cut  out  the 
cleft,  than  when  the  limb  was  split  to  insert  the 
scion,  we  wished  to  know  the  reason  for  the  better 
result. 

Could  it  be  possible  that  an  improvement  had 
been  made  on  this  method  of  our  grandfathers? 
Securing  a  microscope  of  sufficient  power  to  exam- 
in  the  cell  and  cell  structure  of  the  plant,  we  found 
an  interesting  field  for  study.  The  life  zone  of  the 
tree  is  in  the  ends  of  rootlets  and  branches,  and 
along  the  combium  and  sap  wood.  The  dark  heart 
wood  (duramen)  is  dead.  Neither  life  nor  circula- 
tion is  in  it.  The  only  benefit  it  is  to  the  tree  is  to 
give  it  strength. 

The  outer  thick  bark  of  the  tree  is  also  dead; 
and  clinging  to  the  inner  bark  it  protects  the  tree 
from  heat  and  cold.  The  cambium  of  last  year  has 
divided.  The  inner  portion  forms  the  last  ring 
growth  of  the  wood,  the  outer  becomes  the  inmost 
layer  of  the  bark.  This  year's  cambium  is  thrusting 
the  double  annual  ring  of  cells  between  these  two. 
Tu  every  inch  of  the  walnut  there  are  more  than 

[45] 


THE    WALNUT 


two  thousand  of  these  cells.  They  may  be  likened 
to  as  many  small  tubes  reaching  from  rootlet  to  the 
topmost  bud  of  the  tree.  Their  function  is  to  con- 
vey the  sap  and  to  deposit  the  substances  held  in 
solution  wherever  required  in  the  growth  of  the 
tree. 

Hence,  using  a  scion  one-half  inch  in  diameter, 
one  thousand  or  more  of  these  tiny  cells  are  cut; 
while  in  splitting  a  branch  and  springing  the  parts 
to  insert  this  scion,  but  few  are  broken,  the  vast 
number  being  bent  aside.  Should  we  expect  the 
thousand  mouths  to  get  sufficient  nourishment  from 
the  few  broken  ones? 

Cut  out  the  cleft,  opening  up  as  many  cells  in 
the  stock  as  in  the  scion,  and  note  the  result.  In 
all  of  our  work,  whether  on  walnut,  apple,  pear, 
peach,  plum,  cherry,  or  even  oak  as  stock  for  the 
chestnut  we  never  split  a  limb  too  large  for  the 
splice  graft.  We  are  fully  aware  that  in  early 
springtime  the  bark  parts  easily  from  last  year's 
growth,  and  some  may  think  the  sap  flows  readily 
around  the  stem ;  but  immediately  the  double  row  of 
cells,  the  one  to  form  the  bark  and  the  other  the 
wood's  yearly  growth  begin  to  form.  The  sap  flows 
upward  thru  these  cells  and  life's  mystery  goes  on. 
The  mystery  which  we  cannot  comprehend,  whether 

[46  ] 


GRAFT  OLD  TREES  BY  THE  CLEFT  METHOD 

in  animal  or  vegetable  life,  had  its  origin  in  a  cell, 
and  continues  by  cell  growth.  We  may  modify  it, 
create  new  varieties,  but  the  Why,  life's  secret  of 
the  cell,  is  beyond  our  present  knowledge. 

Graft  Old  Trees  by  the  Cleft  Method 

It  is  not  difficult  to  graft  over  large  trees,  by  in- 
serting the  scions  into  the  large  limbs  seven  or 
eight  inches  in  diameter.  When  this  is  done  a 
branch  should  be  left  occasionally  to  draw  the  sap 
and  to  shade  the  grafts.  Such  limbs  may  be  grafted 
the  following  season  or  cut  out  to  give  the  full  sap 
flow  to  the  new  growth.  Suckers  will  grow  on  the 
old  stock  for  two  or  three  years.  It  requires  much 
care  to  keep  them  pulled  off.  This  should  not  be 
neglected,  if  the  tree  is  to  be  converted  into  a  pro- 
lific bearing  tree  of  the  English  variety. 

The  following  illustration  shows  a  stump  twelve 
inches  in  diameter,  four  feet  three  inches  high, 
grafted  into  the  English.  Six  grafts  were  put  into 
the  stump,  five  of  which  grew.  The  tree  was  grafted 
about  the  middle  of  April  and  the  photo  was  taken 
the  first  of  September.  The  growth  to  that  date 
was  thirteen  feet,  and  the  tree  will  doubtless  make 
a  growth  of  sixteen  feet  during  the  first  year. 

[47] 


THE    WALNUT 


Bark-Grafting 

The  bark  graft  is  but  a  method  of  budding  a 
scion.  It  is  sometimes  inserted  on  the  side  of  the 
stock  and  sometimes  at  the  top  where  cut  off.  Cut 
the  scion  the  lower  part  in  form  of  a  right  angle  so 
it  -will  shoulder  on  the  wood  of  the  stock.  Make 
the  part  to  be  inserted  under  the  bark  very  thin, 
taking  off  nearly  all  of  the  wood;  then  trim  the 
edge  of  the  scion,  taking  off  part  of  the  bark  in  a 
slanting  cut  from  the  ed?e  of  both  sides  to  the  cam- 
bium line.  Slit  the  bark  and  lift  it  gently  from  the 
stock.  Insert  the  scion,  forcing  it  down  firmly  upon 
the  wood  stock. 

Sometimes  the  bark  is  corrugated  and  by  using 
a  small  wedge  it  can  be  lifted  out  from  the  stock 
without  splitting.  The  scion  is  inserted  as  before. 
This  way  makes  a  better  union  and  the  growing 
graft  is  not  so  easily  blown  out  after  the  bandage 
is  removed. 

Side  Graft 

The  side  graft  is  not  so  difficult  to  insert.  Using 
a  small  chisel  cut  thru  the  bark  into  the  wood  at  an 
angle  of  seventy-five  or  eighty  degrees.  Study  the 
cambium  and  shape  the  scion  to  make  as  much  as 

[48  ] 


Graft  on    Large   Stump. 


THE    WALNUT 


possible  of  its  cambium  to  meet  that  of  the  stock. 
Drive  the  scion  into  the  stock  but  not  with  suffi- 
cient force  to  close  the  cells. 

Wax  carefully  and  tie  a  band  around  the  stock 
below  the  scion  to  hold  it  in  place.  These  methods 
are  used  when  the  stock  is.  larger  than  the  scion. 

Saddle-Graft 

Another  excellent  method. — modification  of  both 
the  cleft  and  the  splice, — used  when  stock  and  scion 
are  of  the  same  size, — is  named  the  saddle-graft. 
When  using  this  method  we  always  cut  the  cleft  in 
the  stock.  We  get  no  better  results;  but  it  is  easier 
to  make.  Saw  off  the  top.  rip  it  down  and  cut  out 
the  cleft  entirely  thru  the  stock.  If  the  work  is 
on  the  ground,  stand  near,  bend  over  the  top  and 
make  a  slanting  cut  down  to  the  center  of  the  stock. 
Change  position  and  make  a  like  incision  on  the 
other  side.  The  top  can  now  be  lifted  from  the 
stock.  Shape  the  scion  to  fit  the  cleft. — cambiums 
to  meet;  bind  and  wax.  Care  will  give  good  results 
from  this  method. 

Any  method  which  unites  a  great  number  of  the 
cambium  cells  of  the  stock  and  the  scion  will  meet 
with  success,  if  the  grafts  are  kept  well  waxed  over. 

[50  ] 


Saddle  Graft. 


THE    WALNUT 


Budding 

There  are  several  methods  of  inserting  buds. 
Some  varieties  of  trees  respond  readily  to  any 
method  properly  preformed.  Other  kinds — as  in 
grafting- — are  difficult  to  bud  successfully.  After 
the  grafting  season  has  passed — about  the  first 
of  June,  when  buds  have  matured — you  may  use  the 
new  bud  and  get  a  fair  growth  during  the  present 
growing  season.  In  order  to  force  the  growth,  sever 
Ihe  budded  branch  just  above  the  first  bud,  over 
the  bud  inserted.  This  calls  for  a  continuous  sap 
flow  to  that  bud. 

To  cut  the  branch  below  the  bud,  means  to 
divert  the  flow  of  sap  from  the  bud  just  put  in. 
Nature  has  arranged  the  cells  leading  to  every  bud 
on  the  limb,  and  when  the  limb  is  severed  just  below 
a  bud  the  circulation  ceases  at  the  next  lower  bud 
and  the  wood  above  soon  dies.  Better  results  are 
obtained  by  inserting  the  new  bud  on  a  bud  in  the 
stock,  i.  e.,  make  the  cross  cut  below  a  bud  and  slit 
the  bark  down  thru  this  stock  bud,  raising  the  bark 
over  this  bud  to  insert  the  new  one ;  which  Is  to 
make  the  new  top  of  the  tree.  The  cells  being 
arranged  to  convey  the  sap  to  this  point,  the  in- 
serted bud  is  soon  healed  in  and  growth  begins,  i.  e.. 
if  the  sap  be  allowed  to  flow  up  the  stock  to  a 

[52] 


THE    SLIP  BUD 


healthy  bud  above  the  one  put  in.  However,  if  the 
branch  be  cut  between  the  new  bud  and  the  first  one 
above,  the  sap  will  be  diverted  to  the  first  bud  below 
the  one  requiring  it,  and  the  bud  doubtless  will  die. 
Always  in  cutting  a  branch  above  a  bud,  either  to 
force  the  growth  the  same  year  when  budded,  or  to 
start  the  growth  in  a  dormant  bud  in  early  spring- 
time, cut  above  the  first  bud  on  the  stock 
above  the  one  put  in  to  make  the  tree ; 
then  after  growth  is  well  started  cut  off  the  stub 
stock  close  to  the  young  growth.  It  will  soon  heal 
over.  Do  not  allow  this  stub  to  remain  on  the 
stock,  as  it  soon  dies  and  may  injure  the  tree.  Ob- 
serve this  rule  always,  regardless  of  the  method  of 
budding  used. 

The  Slip  Bud 

The  slip  bud  as  usually  made  has  the  T  or  cross 
cut  at  the  top  of  the  slit.  By  careful  experiments 
we  secured  a  greater  percentage  of  growths  when 
we  made  the  cross  cut  at  the  bottom  of  the  cut  or 
slit.  "We  account  for  the  better  result  as  in  the  cleft 
graft ;  the  sap  rising  up  thru  the  living  bark  cells, 
pass  readily  into  the  cells  of  the  piece  of  inserted 
bark  containing  the  bud.  This  should  be  made  as 
broad  as  it  can  be  inserted,  and  cut  on  the  line  of 

[  53  ] 


THE    WALNUT 


the  cross  cut,  making  a  close  joint.  Cover  with  soft 
wax  or  bind  with  strips  of  waxed  muslin,  being 
careful  to  leave  the  bud  uncovered  so  its  growth 
will  not  be  hindered. 

Half  Ring  Bud 

Two  cross  cuts  are  made  about  one  inch  apart, 
and  a  slit  severs  the  bark  between  them.  A  piece  of 
bark  is  taken  from  a  scion  by  making  similar  cross 
cuts  to  those  in  the  stock.  Make  parallel  slits  on 
each  side  of  the  bud  and  in  taking  it  from  the  scion 
be  careful  not  to  draw  the  germ  from  the  bud.  Lift 
the  bark  on  one  side  and  insert  the  knife,  cutting 
out  a  thin  segment  of  the  sap  wood.  Make  a  slant- 
ing cut  on  each  side  of  the  bud.  leaning  the  knife 
to  the  bud;  then  lift  the  bark  of  the  stock  and  insert 
this  piece,  joining  the  ends  so  the  cambiums  of  the 
two  parts  meet.  Press  the  stock  bark  down  firmly; 
wax  over  the  joints  and  bind  with  strip  of  waxed 
muslin,  leaving  the  bud  free. 

The  wood  cut  out  with  the  bud  should  be  re- 
moved carefully,  if  the  work  is  done  late  in  the  sea- 
son and  buds  are  to  remain  dormant  until  spring ; 
but  if  the  work  is  done  in  early  summer  to  get 
growth  the  present  year,  the  wood  is  soft  and  need 
not  be  removed,  as  it  unites  readily  with  the  stock. 

[54] 


The  Slip  Bud. 


THE    WALNUT 


Ring-Bud 

This  method  takes  out  an  entire  ring  from  the 
stock,  and  a  similar  ring  of  another  variety  con- 
taining a  well  developed  bud  is  substituted.  Bind 
as  in  the  half  ring  method.  The  walnut  can  be 
budded  very  successfully  by  this  method,  in  August ; 
the  buds  remaining  dormant  until  spring,  when  the 
branch  is  severed  above  the  bud  to  start  the  growth. 

Train  Your  Grafts 

Scions  usually  make  rapid  growth  the  first  year. 
Being  soft  and  pliable,  they  tend  to  bend  down- 
ward. A  strong  stake  should  be  set  up  by  the  tree 
and  the  growing  branch  tied  with  thick  coarse 
bands  to  the  stake. 

Small  cords  tightly  bound  interfere  with  the 
circulation  or  sap  flow  and  sometimes  destroy  the 
young  growth  above  the  point  where  tied.  If  the 
top  bud  grows  in  one  stem  without  throwing  out 
side  branches  enough  to  form  a  good  head,  pinch 
off  the  top  bud  and  side  branches  will  soon  grow 
out.  Should  one  or  more  of  these  branches 
tend  to  make  too  much  growth,  thus  destroying  the 
symmetry  of  the  tree,  pinch  the  buds  and  a  portion 
of  the  sap  flow  will  be  diverted  into  other  limbs. 

[56] 


Half    Ring    Bgd, 


THE    WALNUT 


Many  lateral  buds  will  start  into  growth  on  the 
stalk  below  the  graft ;  these  must  be  pulled  off,  since 
their  growth  retards  that  of  the  scion. 

Mingle  Varieties  in  Grafting 

When  grafting  a  nut  orchard  it  is  better  to 
change  the  varieties  in  alternate  rows,  because  trees 
thus  arranged  aid  each  the  other  in  pollenatiou.  A 
late  rain  might  destroy  or  wash  off  all  the  pollen  of 
one  variety  before  the  bloom  is  fertilized ;  hence, 
the  other  trees  whose  staminates  ripen  later  would 
yield  sufficient  pollen  to  fertilize  all  trees. 

Do  Not  Graft  Young  Trees 

A  tree  should  have  a  well  formed  root  system 
before  it  is  grafted,  as  it  usually  commences  to  bear 
nuts  the  second  year.  Young  trees  forced  into  bear- 
ing too  early  by  being  grafted  too  soon  are  dwarfed 
and  never  recover.  For  this  reason  we  do  not  deal 
in  grafted  stock.  Graft  the  tree  when  four  years 
old  and  note  the  growth.  A  fine  top  with  branches 
eight,  twelve  and  often  sixteen  feet  in  length  will 
grow  the  first  year;  and  yield  from  one  to  ten  Ibs. 
of  choice  nuts  the  second  year  after  being  grafted. 

To  remove  a  tree  after  it  has  developed  a  fine 

[58] 


Ring   Bud. 


THE    WALNUT 


root  system,  means  permanent  injury.  All  of  the 
small  rootlets  which  contain  the  microscopic  mouths 
that  drink  sustenance  for  the  tree  are  destroyed ; 
and  the  tree  must  grow  other  rootlets  before  growth 
in  the  stock  can  be  renewed. 


Pruning 

It  is  not  the  custom  of  nut  growers  to  prune  the 
walnut  tree  to  any  great  extent.  However,  our  ex- 
perience has  proven  that  it  can  be  improved  by 
careful  priming.  Give  to  it  as  to  any  other  tree,  a 
shapely  appearance  by  proper  pruning.  If  the  tree 
be  permitted  to  grow  two  or  three  large  branches 
they  are  liable  to  split  apart  sometime  when  loaded 
with  nuts,  and  the  tree  destroyed  or  its  beauty 
effectually  marred. 

Make  the  young  tree  grow  in  one  strong  central 
branch  with  well  balanced  limbs  growing  strong 
and  upward.  If  trees  are  to  be  cultivated  you  want 
room  beneath  the  branches.  When  bearing  a  heavy 
nut  crop  branches  bend  beneath  the  weight:  hence, 
great  care  should  be  taken  in  properly  training  the 
lower  limbs.  Cut  back  the  limbs  to  fifteen  or  eight- 
een inches  before  the  sap  flow  in  early  springtime, 
cutting  beyond  an  upper  bud.  Cutting  back  makes 

[60] 


Ring    Bud. 


THE    WALNUT 


the  branch  strong  and  cutting  beyond  an  upper  bud 
causes  an  upward  growth.  Always  cut  close  to  the 
bud  and  the  wound  will  soon  heal  over.  This  rule 
should  invariably  be  observed  in  trimming  any  kind 
of  trees  or  even  rose  bushes.  Circulation  ceases 
with  the  growing  bud  and  the  part  of  the  branch 
left  beyond  the  bud  dies,  turns  black  and  continues 
to  die  along  down  the  stem  below  the  bud.  If  at  any 
time  it  is  necessary  to  cut  off  a  large  limb,  cut  as 
closely  as  possible  to  the  main  branch,  and  paint  or 
wax  over  the  wound.  It  in  time  may  heal  over,  thus 
preserving  the  wood  and  preventing  decay. 

In  early  spring  time  before  the  buds  have  com- 
menced to  swell  is  the  best  time  to  prune  the  walnut 
tree.  However,  if  the  trees  are  not  pruned  at  this 
time,  then  wait  until  they  are  growing  fast  in  May 
or  the  first  of  June.  At  this  period  the  cambium 
cells  are  forming  and  being  filled  with  protoplasm, 
and  there  is  no  danger  of  loss  of  sap  or  the  trees 
bleeding; 

If  a  limb  should  be  broken  off.  leaving  an  un- 
sightly appearance  in  the  outline  of  the  tree,  it  can 
be  closed  up  by  judicious  pruning.  To  do  this  the 
branches  nearest  the  break  should  be  cut  back  in 
such  a  way  that  the  buds  will  send  out  new  branches 
to  fill  the  break.  Remember  to  cut  just  beyond  a 

[62] 


BEARING    QUALITIES 


strong  bud.  If  nuts  sunburn  from  excessive  heat, 
thicken  the  branches  on  the  southwest  by  pinching 
off  the  end  buds  when  the  tree  is  in  vigorous  growth. 

Bearing  Qualities 

The  most  prolific  bearing  trees  are  those  grafted 
to  the  California  black.  Two  noted  trees  are  the 
Wolfskill  and  the  Payne,  each  having  yielded  as 
many  as  seven  hundred  Ibs.  of  nuts  in  a  single  year. 

The  average  yield  for  ten  years  from  one  large 
tree  grafted  fifteen  years  past  has  been  three  hun- 
dred and  ninety-four  Ibs.  From  the  above  we  may 
form  some  estimate  of  the  value  of  a  large  orchard — 
properly  put  out,  and  cared  for — in  the  coming 
years.  It  will  commence  bearing  the  sixth  year  and 
increase  rapidly  thereafter.  Give  sufficient  nour- 
ishment to  the  soil,  and  with  proper  cultivation  trees 
will  make  wonderful  growth.  Comfort,  shade, 
beauty  and  value  are  created;  and  while  walking 
beneath  the  ever  spreading  branches,  the  spirit 
drinks  from  the  fount  of  perennial  youth. 

And  besides  the  beauty  of  landscape  there  is  the 
added  value  of  food  and  timber.  One  large  walnut 
tree  has  been  sold  for  three  thousand  dollars. 


[63] 


THE    WALNUT 


Harvesting 

The  walnut  usually  drops  from  the  hull,  is  gath- 
ered and  given  two  or  three  washings  in  clear  water, 
laid  out  on  trays,  dried  and  sacked  for  the  market. 

Frequently  the  outer  hull  dries,  clings  to  the 
nut  and  it  is  difficult  to  separate  them.  When  this 
occurs,  knock  off  the  nuts  upon  a  large  sheet  spread 
out  under  the  tree.  Dump  them  into  a  wagon,  take 
them  to  the  drying  shed  and  shovel  the  nuts  into  a 
vat  of  water.  Stir  them  briskly  for  a  few  minutes 
and  they  will  part  from  the  hulls.  They  should  be 
washed  two  or  three  times  in  clear  water  and  spread 
out  on  the  drying  trays.  Standing  in  the  vat  with 
the  hulls,  or  permitting  them  to  dry  when  taken  out 
before  washing,  will  give  the  nuts  a  dark  stain. 
"\Yash  the  nuts  in  clear  water  as  soon  as  they  part 
from  the  hull. 

Nuts  properly  gathered  need  not  be  bleached,  as 
this  injures  the  nuts  having  open  shells.  Such  nuts 
will  not  keep,  as  they  soon  become  rancid.  Nuts 
should  remain  on  the  trees  until  the  outer  hull  is 
dry.  They  should  not  be  gathered  into  piles,  nor 
put  into  sacks  while  this  hull  clings  to  them;  they 
become  soft,  are  very  disagreeable  to  clean,  besides 
the  shells  are  stained  and  their  market  value  injured. 

[64] 


THE    WALNUT 


Value  for  Timber 

In  most  countries  where  the  walnut  grows  the 
timber  is  very  valuable  for  furniture,  frames,  gun- 
stocks,  mantels,  etc.  More  than  a  century  past 
France  passed  a  law  prohibiting  the  exportation  of 
walnut  lumber. 

Yet  in  our  own  country,  in  Indiana,  it  had  little 

or  no  value  in  the  early  settlement  of  the  state.  An 

encumbrance,  cut  down,  rolled  into  log  heaps  and 

burned.     One  or  two  cuts  of  the  finest  trees  split 

into  rails.     In  boyhood  many  a  noble  tree  have  we 

seen  thus  disposed  of  in  the  valley  of  the  Wabash. 

Today  the  lumber  from  similar  trees  would  bring 

from  two  to   three   hundred  dollars  per  thousand. 

The  California  walnut  likewise  makes  very  valuable 

lumber.  The  entire  tree  being  gnarly,  and  when  pol- 

/ished  it  has  a  very  pleasing  effect.     It  makes  valu- 

/  able  veneers,   the  color  a   rich  brown,   but   not   so 

I  dark. or  heavy  as  the  Eastern  black. 

Value  of  Nuts 

As  an  investment  walnut  culture  has  many  advan- 
tages over  fruit  raising.  Trees  do  not  require  so  much 
care,  cultivation,  and  pruning,  and  are  free  from 
insect  pests.  The  walnut  can  be  harvested  with  less 

[65] 


THE    WALNUT 


expense  than  fruit  and  marketed  at  leisure.  There 
is  always  a  home  market  for  it.  Many  years  will 
elapse  before  the  supply  in  our  country  \vill  equal 
the  demand.  In  hundreds  of  homes  nuts  are  taking 
the  place  of  meat,  and  the  users  are  the  healthier  for 
the  change.  Xuts,  nut  cakes,  nut  hot  cakes,  blanch- 
ed walnuts,  walnut  and  banana  salad,  nut  and  fruit 
salad,  nut  cabbage  salad,  mock  turkey,  roast  duck, 
(vegetarian  style),  imperial  nut  roast,  walnut  loaf, 
walnut  roast,  walnut  lentil  patties,  walnut  lentils, 
lentil  roast  (with  walnuts),  bean  and  nut  loaf, 
candy  (with  walnuts),  fudge,  nougat,  panoche  and 
divinity  are  some  of  the  viands  on  many  tables.  It 
was  well  named  when  called  "The  food  of  the 
Gods,"  this  King  of  nuts. 

The  Analysis  of  the  Walnut 

Kernels     .  100  % 

Water    ! 2.8 

Proteids  _  16.7 

Fat   ....  64.4 

Carb ...  14.8 

Ash  ...  1.3 


THE    WALNUT 


The  knowledge  gained  from  a  study  of  this 
treatise  will  be  valuable  in  raising  nuts  and  fruits 
of  all  kinds  raised  in  a  temperate  climate. 

All  trees  are  subject  to  the  same  general  laws ; 
and  will  respond  as  does  the  walnut  to  Nature's 
method  of  propagation.  The  pomologist  may  change 
varieties  in  his  orchards  by  grafting,  and  they  will 
respond  with  a  wealth  of  fruit  which  justifies  the 
outlay  and  care.  The  life  line  is  yearly  renewed  in 
every  tree,  and  it  is  just  as  young  in  the  tree  that 
has  withstood  the  storms  of  centuries  as  in  the  sap- 
ling of  a  single  year. 

The  heart  wood  alone  is  old.  The  living  tree  is 
always  young;  and  with  sufficient  moisture,  contain- 
ing the  elements  necessary  to  growth  it  continues  to 
expand.  It  is  not  possible  to  give  rules  to  meet  all 
conditions.  There  is  a  cause  for  every  effect;  and 
the  orchardist  must  always  be  on  the  alert.  Climate 
is  influenced  by  latitude,  elevation,  nearness  to  the 
sea,  direction  of  prevailing  winds,  amount  of  rain- 
fall, vicinity  of  mountains  and  ranges,  etc..  etc. 
Hence,  the  growing  of  orchards,  and  to  be  able  to 
cope  with  the  various  conditions  requires  constant 
study  and  thought.  But  success  is  sure  to  come  to 
the  careful  thoughtful  grower. 


THE    WALNUT 


Grafting  Wax 

The  following  formula  will  give  an  excellent  and 
durable  wax: 

Bees  wax  1  lb. 

Boiled  oil  1  pt. 

Resin  5  Ibs. 

Put  all  of  the  ingredients  into  a  vessel  over  a 
slow  fire,  and  when  dissolved  pour  the  contents  into 
a  vat  or  tub  of  wrater.  Work  under  the  water  until 
cool,  then  work  the  mass  in  the  air  until  it  is  free 
from  the  water.  One  lb.  of  tallow  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  the  oil.  If  dark  wax  is  desired  lamp  black 
may  be  added  while  cooking.  If  the  wax  should  be 
too  soft,  rendering  it  liable  to  melt  and  flow  down 
the  stock,  add  more  resin. 


[68] 


Walnut  Trees 

For  Stock  Purpose 

THE 

CALIFORNIA 

BLACK 

is  the  hardiest  tree  known. 
Will   grow    in  any  climate. 

We  have  in  our  Calaveras  Nursery  a 
limited  number  of  these  trees  ready 
for  this  winter  s  planting. 

Prices  on  application. 


Iti  Anderson-Price  Nursery 
Company 

416      J     STREET 
SACRAMENTO,          -          CALIFORNIA 


Scions  or  Grafts 

For  propagating,  by  grafting  into  the  hardy  California 
Black;  we  have  the  following  choice  varieties:  Calavette. 
Franquette,  Mayette,  Hubbard,  Stocktonian  and  Smith's 
Favorite. 

MAYETTE. 

French  variety.  Late  bloomer.  Kernel  white  and 
delicious.  Considered  a  shy  bearer.  It  will  doubtless 
ere  long  be  improved  by  careful  selections  of  scions  in 
grafting.  Should  be  grafted  into  alternate  rows  with 
the  Franquette. 

HUBBARD. 

A  medium  sized  nut  having  many  characteristics  of 
the  pecan.  Very  noticeable  pecan  flavor,  and  shaped 
like  the  pecan.  The  tree  is  hardy  and  prolific.  The 
shell  is  well  filled  by  the  kernel.  We  studied  this  nut 
many  years  and  have  yet  to  see  one  injured  by  sun- 
burn or  blight. 

CALAVETTE. 

Hybrid.  Praeparturien  and  Gant.  Produced  at 
Westpoint,  Cal.  Hardy  and  prolific.  Very  large  nut 
of  excellent  flavor.  Requires  rich  soil. 

FRANQUETTE. 

Late  blooming  French  variety.  Hardy.  Good  bearer. 
Fine  flavor.  Suited  to  localities  subject  to  late  spring 
frosts. 

STOCKTONIAN. 

Vigorous  tree  immune  from  blight  and  sunburn.  We 
have  watched  this  tree  for  years  and  have  never  seen 
a  crop  failure.  The  nut  is  as  large  as  the  Franquette 
but  more  symmetrical  and  better  filled.  The  outside  hull 
is  very  thick,  hence  its  protection  from  heat.  Nuts  with 
thick  hulls  do  not  sunburn. 

SMITH'S    FAVORITE. 

Choice  walnut  produced  at  Westpoint,  Cal.  Medium 
soft  shell.  Large  nut.  Full  white  kernel.  Fine  flavor. 
Good  bearer.  Immune  from  blight  and  sunscald.  By 
Thomas  R.  Smith  of  Westpoint,  Cal. 

To  be  obtained  at  the  Anderson-Price  Nursery  Co., 
Westpoint,  Cal. 

For  prices  and  further  information  apply  to  or 
address 

ANDERSON-PRICE  NURSERY  CO. 

416  J  Street Sacramento,   Cal. 


MAYETTE 


FRANQUETTE 


HUBBARD 


CALAVETTE 


Grafting  Wax 


Scientifically  prepared  and 
ready  for  use;  also  waxed 
grafting  tape  in  any  desired 
length  and  width  ready  to 
apply.  These  preparations 
have  been  scientifically  pre- 
pared after  years  of  research 
and  have  never  failed.  The 
waxed  tape  comes  in  rolls 
of  suitable  widths,  prepared 
for  grafting  and  budding,  also 
for  binding  up  wounds  on 
trees,  etc.,  etc.  :  : 


For  prices  and  information  write  to 

Anderson-Price  Nursery  Co. 

416  J  Street 
Sacramento,          -          California 


The  Anderson-Price 

NURSERIES 

at  Sacramento,   California,   and    at 
Westpoint,  Calaveras  County,  Cal. 


We  furnish  only  one  year  old 
trees,  the  California  Black  for 
stock  purpose.  These  trees  are 
grown  from  hardy  nuts  raised 
in  the  cold  Sierras  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  three  thousand  feet. 
We  do  not  deal  in  grafted  stock; 
hut  we  will  contract  to  graft 
trees  for  any  and  all  parties  who 
may  wish  to  let  out  their  work. 

We  also  deal  in  scions,  wax 
and  waxed  tape  for  grafting  and 
budding  purposes:  :  : 


Ihf  Anderson-Price  Nursery 
Company 

416    J    STREET 
SACRAMENTO,          -          CALIFORNIA 


Make  money  following  "  The  Walnut"  Book.  $1  postpaid. 

General  Value  of  Price's  Book 

to  Every  Grower  of 

Fruit  Trees. 

[o] 

The  Method  of  Grafting 

prescribed  by  Mr.  Price  in  his  treatise  on  the  Walnut  is 
the  latest,  most  successful  and  by  all  odds  the  most 
scientific. 

Further  than  this 


The  process  for  grafting  the  walnut  is  precisely  the  same 
as  for  grafting  any  other  fruit  tree.  There  are  no  ex- 
ceptions. 


Therefore 


Price's  book  is  invaluable  to  every  grower  of  fruit  trees, 
whether  he  be  interested  in  walnut  culture,  or  not.  Be- 
cause the  simple,  succinct,  and  perfectly  comprehensible 
directions  for  grafting  are  equally  applicable  to  the 

Peach,  Apple,   Orange,   Lemon,  Plum,  Pear,  or 

any  other  fruit  tree  whatsoever. 

The  book  is  a  mine   of  information    on   this    subject    and 

contains  formulas   for   grafting    wax    and    all    necessary 

appurtenances. 


The  success  of  the  Price  method  of  grafting  is  proved  by 

actual  practice.     Over  90  percent,  of  all 

case*  have  succeeded. 


Address  E.  M.  PRICE,  416  J  St.,  Sacramento,  Cal. 


SB 
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